by Anjori Grover Vasesi
12-January-2018 | 6 mins read
We are big believers in the statement that good fashion comes from a collection that has a voice of its own and emulates spontaneity – much like the youth of today… So, when we started searching for someone who amalgamates both of these fashion aspirations simultaneously, Pierre Kaczmarek, the brainchild behind Afterhomework (Paris), stood out from the pool of other brands doing similar work.
In 2014 at the tender age of 15, Pierre founded AHW P, which focuses on bringing the combined creative genius of young Parisian creatives such as artists, musicians, video artists and graphic designers together into a design language translated through clothing that is streetwear-centric, genderless and possesses fine sartorial skills.
A pure result of passion, Afterhomework came about as a creative experiment on T-shirts that quickly gained steam within Pierre’s friend circle that led him to take the idea seriously. Pierre was joined by stylist Elena Mottola in 2016 and that is precisely when the label made an entry into the world of fashion via Paris Fashion Week.
One of their previous presentations exudes the characteristics possessed by the emerging millennial and Gen-Z generations; wherein, the designer duo involved their friends Suzanne Lindon, the daughter of actors Vincent Lindon and Sandrine Kiberlain, and Marin Baud, a French Literature student (and a musician also known as MMX Delta) to feature at their show. They also invited their schoolmates to walk as models at the main show.
Ever since, the label has been in the limelight for its geometric and unstructured silhouettes that merge young, modern fashion-inspired directly by the phenomena of society and cultural nuances.
Two-collection-old AHWP is an independently-run brand, entirely crafted in small ateliers located across Paris. Their effortless and nonconforming approach to traditional workwear, everyday streetwear, and casual eveningwear has an underlying avant-garde hint to it. Not all looks make sense, but each definitely has a story of itself.
“Our signature style is to have no real style.
Our fashion is brutal and spontaneous.”
Every emerging generation is smirked upon by generations succeeding it for being too brash, presumptuous or vain but the emerging generation seeks beauty in simplicity.
Everyday things such as creases of sleeves after being slept upon during class, pigeons crushed on the pavement by cars or the fascinating shapes created by clothes hurled across the floor at the end of the day evoke curiosity and get the creative juices flowing for Pierre and Elena.
Because simplicity and relatability are two cornerstones of the label’s ideology, Pierre focuses on materials such as wool, cotton, nylon and polyester that are sourced locally and which can easily be spotted on the street nowadays.
The label currently enjoys Asia as its No. 1 market; wherein it boasts of 7 stockists across in Japan, China, Hong Kong and Korea. It plans to grow and ameliorate profits by double in the next season.
“Depending on the order, we generally produce one sample for the label and one for our PR team from where it is taken forward depending upon the nature of the order in question.”
According to Pierre, the creative inspiration behind a collection lies at the centre of the process, the entire procedure is in itself extemporaneous where collections are approached as research sets. The designer is mindful of trends but does not follow them blindly, emphasizing more on their collections being experimental but still wearable.
“Our inspiration came from not defining the consumer who it is for. I did not target customers at the onslaught and I didn’t follow a trend in particular to touch a target. It has always been about experimentation”
Gen Z is next in line to become the target consumer segment in the seasons to come and Pierre Kaczmarek has acquired quite a remarkable start in that regard. Being a Gen Z himself, Pierre stresses on the importance and need for young creatives undertaking fashion in today’s date and that social networks with a keen focus on imagery, are the way to reach out to such targets.
“I am not really a teacher but it is important to do what you have to do and not be afraid. You have to start very young now, I think that is where the future lies.”