Razzle-dazzle, glitter, gloss or sheen – whichever way you want to describe the trend, the inclination towards shimmer is here to stay. Seen in a plethora of versions on the runways, red-carpetworthy gowns and streets, metallic shiny surfaces are continuing to be eternally alluring and pushing the designers and garment manufacturers to experiment with different techniques to achieve the glitter effect. The over-the-top glamour statements made famous by the popular faces of the 70s are getting translated in adaptations of sequins, glitter, lurex and lame, as designers are still trying to keep the opulent and sophisticated spirit of 70s alive. With glamorous glitter decorating the bases for skirts and dresses, the fashion team at Apparel Online takes you through the different tried and tested techniques to achieve the perfect shimmer…
Be it McCartney’s sporty silhouette metallic dress toughened up with black ankle boots or full-on glitz ensemble at Dolce & Gabbana, the upheaval of the shiny surface was clearly visible in the Fall and S/S ’15 collections. Moschino showcased acid wash denim mixed with the flashiness of a gold lame fabric creating gold and denim patchwork overalls, whereas, Gucci, touched down the seventies with pleated skirts in lame, lurex and leather. Giles presented a black and white lace and leather-made tough-chic bedfellows in strictly tailored jackets, skirts and ruffled lacy blouses.
With layers getting lighter, it is just the right time to celebrate spring time dressing with a healthy serving of sparkles and many techniques such as usage of shiny fabrics like lame, sequin as the base, foil printing, beading, embroidery can be put to action while achieving the same. Niraj Pugalia, CEO, Silver Apparels, building on the same said, “We mostly do heavily embellished garments, by using sequencing and beading as a technique on silk and viscose. Year-on-year different machines are being launched which are helping us achieve costeffective sparkle effects. We also use variety of hot spangle and sequin combinations to accomplish the desired glittery feel.”
The shiny surface has started to grow popular amongst different buyers, the reason why many exporters are trying different methods to give their unique touch of sparkle to their collections. One such technique is foil printing. From sophisticated maxis to chic sundresses, foil print is getting bigger and better. Foil printing is achieved by using heat and pressure in order to let any design stand out from the rest with added brilliance and depth of the shine left behind. Many designers like Mary Katrantzou in their S/S ’15 collections stepped over minimal neutrals and bold prints, to give way to seriously superb futuristic shine. Sachin Kumar, MD, Shobha Designs, screen printing service provider, speaking in favour of foil printing said, “We do all kinds of techniques in printing and the most popular is the pigment printing and foil printing. Other techniques might come and go, but the craze and demand for foil printing doesn’t seem to mellow down.”
Another technique to achieve shiny surface on garments is by means of metallic coating, be it pigment, acrylic or polyurethane coating, every medium shields the fabric with a transparent film which imparts the fabric a metallic shimmer or a laminated leather-like effect. Moving ahead, achieving shiny surface is not restricted to techniques like coating, woven; besides knitted metallic fabrics are also available and are gaining popularity. Glistening silk organzas and high-tech fabrics with a luminous glow, lame, shiny viscose-lycra mix are some of the new ways that create a shiny base to start with.
Lurex inserted checked dress, elaborate brocades and shiny jacquards, and polyesters with plastic details are a few variations that design boutiques and exporters are creating to maintain uniqueness. Discussing about the growing demand for shiny aspect of fabrics, giving thrust to fabrics like brocades and jacquards, Atul Mittal, MD, Bharti Udyog said, “The trend is now more towards shiny designs and patterns. Till last season, the trend was towards the minimalistic approach but suddenly there is an upheaval of glistening fabrics in domestic as well as export market.
We are developing interesting and innovative range of jacquard fabrics in shiny and glittery surfaces to meet the demand.”
While talking about shine and shimmer, one element that cannot be ignored and has fascinated designers for ages is ‘sequin’. Sequin is the essence of creating a shiny surface and has been crowned as the sign of bling since ancient years. Though exporters are moving ahead of the archetypical ways of attaining shimmer and are experimenting with fabrics, printing and heat press stones, but still sequin is not completely forgotten and new colours, types and application of sequin has kept the technique alive. Also adding the trend is technology with new machines both embroidery and sewing machines offering option for application of sequin.
Arriving with the concept of everyday sequin; sequins are being used in a much more mature and elegant ways in comparison to the playful and bright, past applications, signifying only party wear. Talking about the use of sequin along with other techniques to create the required sheen, Uneet Chhabra, Director, U & I Exports Pvt. Ltd. said, “We are primarily into beaded and embellished evening wear; therefore, glittery adornments, value-added products with beading and sequences are our USP. We are doing a lot of hand beading and sequencing along with hand painting, and putting together different shiny fabrics for the dazzle effect.”
While sequins may rule the dance floor and beading may have taken over the evening wear segment, zari and shimmery embroidery is still stunning and is getting incorporated in the collections of many designers and exporters. Interestingly, even western wedding wear is seeing the bling effect and the recently concluded ‘May Runways For Bridal Fashion’ saw use of various techniques for the glitter effect.
The likes of mirror work, appliqué work, and resham embroidery are trending in different collections being offered to international brands. Rachit Poddar, Director, Cheer Sagar Exports, explaining about the use of embroidery to bring out the glitter feel said, “We are doing a lot of value additions and glitter is of prime importance. We try to add value in each product. Even if it is a print, we would like to add some glamour and glitter to it. We are doing lot of things in embroideries, mirrors and beads. We use neutral colours and try to bring in the rich look through embellishments in brighter tones. The effort is to create combinations of Indian embroidery with modern technology and futuristic colours in high-street silhouettes.”
