Heavy knits, layering pieces, cosy shawls and bulky capes are all winter essentials one cannot do without, but there is one piece of clothing which combines all these things in one: The Poncho. As a classic and iconic piece in fashion, the poncho provides a perfect amalgamation of folk, modern layering and bohemian flair. While some exporters are more than familiar with this trend and are already working on collections, for a few others it looks like a missed opportunity as they stick to conventional styles for the winter. With this season being already branded as the season of transition pieces, poncho has appeared in distinctive avatars in the collections of multiple different designers.
Following closely on the heels of the previous Fall’s mania of cape coats, designers have transcended to ponchos for constructing roomy styles with a visible cosy demeanour. Cape coats made it big, spreading winter warmth at the Fall ’14 runways and completely coming into a new form for A/W ’15, ponchos were launched in many different avatars to suit the style of today’s wearer. Average jeans and tops can be teamed with elegant ponchos to make the outfit look instantly dressy and put-together. “The classics are never going to fade away. Styles such as ponchos may observe highs and lows but they carry on season-on-season. We are developing styles in single jerseys for our US buyers, but the demand for heavier and more structured 3-Dimensional knitted ponchos is increasing, especially from our European buyers,” shares Selva Point, Chief Executive Officer, Point Knit Industry.
Going through the runways of Fall ’15 RTW, a staggering number of designers can be observed appropriating the look into stylized pieces of outerwear that hung nonchalantly over models’ shoulders like a warm throw. Burberry wrapped shoulders up for a snug yet stylish topper in a printed and fringed version, whereas Dsquared2 presented a collared slope-suited layer ideal for cozying up chalet-side. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini created a colour-blocked poncho with bright colours in knitted avatar and on the other hand, Ralph Lauren draped the poncho across the chest and back, adorned with long fringes and metal buttons. Call it a utilitywear or a statement piece, ponchos have become more feminine, but yet more structured than ever before. Be it a cable knit version, relaxed fit light weight edition or decorated with additional fringes and trims, ponchos this season are not defined by their simple 2-D base but by the 3-Dimension they create. Stated as the most beautiful and intriguing surface, 3-Dimension on ponchos is the fashion of Fall ’15.
Vivek Khandelwal, Owner, Patterns India, shares that sporting short crisp ponchos was initially in fashion but now it has shifted to longer ones with experimentation in different shapes and collars, same was seen in Dsquared2 collections and in the same vein Patterns India is also trying out new fabrics. “We are using poly-georgette, moss crepe, lycra, jacquards and even net schiffli to make ponchos; and we include value addition depending on which price bracket the clientele falls under,” avers Vivek. Though ponchos have been an ‘always there’ kind of a silhouette, but this Fall the interpretations derived by designers on runways are making it look great. It looks chic, feminine, very retro and at the same time very modern. These versatile cloaks can be worn over any clothing combination and looks ultra contemporary.
Taking knit manipulation and fringes to another level, Ralph Lauren created ponchos with turtle necks festooned with heavy fringing on the side hems. Salvatore Ferragamo combined the length of a shawl with the silhouette of a poncho to create his own variety of the style. Mukesh Kumar, Owner, Mahesh Exports, who is dealing with various wholesalers in Europe, talked enthusiastically about the current demand coming from the region. “Printed varieties in jerseys are in demand, especially in miniature florals. Other than that, plain ponchos in shades of lime, peach, sky blue, ruby red and grass green are also getting picked up in large numbers,” he shares.
Though not falling under the subhead of being an ‘innovative new trend’, the poncho is increasingly becoming the most demanded item for the Fall. The low maintenance cape appeared at Salvatore Ferragamo with chic elegant sensibility while Burberry’s version was preppy chic with just the right amount of ‘borrowed from grandma’ feel. Meanwhile, Dsquared’s version of the poncho was classic bohemian with a tribal print and fringe detailing, one of the biggest trends from Fall.
A. Kochhar, Director, Mercury Knits, discussing about the growing demand of ponchos said, “We are also making form fitting pullovers in wool and fleece in heavy GSM, but as per our observations in retail stores and street markets, there is a trend for long capes and ponchos, so this season we are making the similar styles in much higher weights. We are also developing ponchos in blanket fabric ending with tassels.”
While trends like wide-legged pants, florals and shirtdresses might seem a little outdated and done-to-death, there were breathers in side slit skirts, matching sets, and tweed ponchos. “Orders for ponchos for the coming Fall have started coming in and by the end of September the flow should be even faster,” says Vinod Mongia, Proprietor, Manya Creations. With woven, knitted, printed, and solid versions taking rounds of the fashion circuit, ponchos have definitely become a ‘must have’ silhouette. While the ones in flat knits have come across as sweater kimonos – in some cases printed and in some with thick cable knits – circular knits too make a promising appearance in form of ponchos. Ponchos delivered in blanket fabric ending in tassels, have become a style which is a lot in demand.
