by Anjori Grover Vasesi
24-July-2019 | 2 mins read
India Couture Week 2019 has officially begun with Amit Aggarwal’s latest womenswear and menswear collection titled ‘Lumen’.
At a recent virtual reality experience called ‘We Live in an Ocean of Air’, the invisible linking between plant and human was revealed through the concept of breathing. This is where Amit experienced how the air we breathe travels and uniquely illuminates every framework of our body.
‘Lumen’ is a celebration of the unique light that brings the wonderful architecture of the human and plant anatomy to light and thus illuminates us.
Drawing inspiration from organic structures of the human body that exchange an invisible energy through an overlay of framework, fluidity and form, the garments in the collection are created with layers of recycled polymer understructures.
Fluidity is lent through the illusionary movement of textiles that create forms which come to life through intricate motifs and embroideries.
Fabrics such as weightless gossamer tulle lace, organza and traditional Indian textiles created in collaboration with Taani by Tanira Sethi, feature intricate 3D hand embroidered organic angular forms and motifs that give a unique visual and tactile quality to the garments.
The womenswear collection presents traditional Indian silhouettes that blend with western ideologies of couture. Sculpted Edwardian bustles, sarees reinvented with Amit’s dramatically structured trails, sheer drapes and layers that create an illusion of colour through a play of light, are some details that feature throughout.
The menswear collection talks about sharp tailoring techniques in classic styles with a focus on layering. Ceremonial Indian silhouettes are revived with modern 3D hand embroidery fabricated in modern industrial materials, as well as Jacquards, silks and handwoven geometric textiles.
The designer also collaborated with Ankon Mitra, who designed the installations for the show set in sync with the concept of ‘Lumen’; Narayan Jewellers by Ketan and Jatin Chokshi, for their bridal collection featuring engineered designs inspired by the beauty of nature; and Dyuti Bansal, who designed the footwear which depicts geometry and architecture.
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