by Shubhi Srivastava
30-January-2019 | 3 mins read
Gaurav Gupta’s sensational show, “(Un)folding”, held on the runways of The Royal Opera House was a dramatic opening for the Summer/Resort 2019 edition of Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai.
Collection pieces made with the perfect amalgamation of design inspiration and progressive techniques were presented in the backdrop of spectacular drama, dance and visual effects.
A spiral staircase formed the ramp which was strategically draped in folds of white fabrics which had a statuesque beauty at its centre. The show was opened by Bollywood star Tabu, wearing a structured corset gown with tulle drape, embellished with sequins and applique work.
The entire collection celebrated the confluence of embellishments and textile in signatory Gaurav Gupta design elements of origami folding and fluid structural construction for the silhouettes, which are presently the global trends for edgy occasion-wear.
He incorporated Indian textiles such as sun-kissed Banarasi brocades for deconstructed lehengas, with draped demi-couture dresses showcasing Lucknowi Chikankari with a vibrant yellow, known traditionally as ‘Basanti’.
The hues used were a in a gradation form, starting from pale blues to midnight blacks while involving contrasting colour stories such as fiery rose, soothing ivory and gorgeous brocade. The finale garment boasted of construction and grandeur comprising of several pattern modification details giving way to a structured vibrant yellow, wired, curved and moulded gown.
The collection flaunted a myriad of silhouettes ranging from dresses and pantsuits to saris, gowns and eveningwear classics imbibed with traditional value addition details such as zardosi, Chikankari and hand-woven brocades. 3D organza and soft georgette flowers were appliqued on the garments with a discreet splash of crystals and rhinestones.
Construction took its inspiration from scaffold-like aesthetics ending in waterfall style drape and timeless pastels like yellow, ivory, rose and powder blue were used for Chikankari craft.
The highlights of the collection included slinlky gowns with asymmetric mini, embroidered yokes and sleeves, tucked, draped and folded skirts, a beaded bustier-neo sari and indo-western silhouettes of sari gowns. A pant-suit with swirling cape and a pair of black and red identical gowns turned several heads by giving the best of both, haute-couture as well as wearable fashion.
For the menswear collection, Gupta played with gender-fluid details like sequins and bold colours to present western evening-wear pieces such as glittering black tuxedos, laden with details such as zippered tailcoats, shimmering lapels, a red biker’s jacket, stylish brocade dinner jacket, as well as pin tucked and moulded lapels and shoulder. The Indian options included embellished sherwanis.
Ending the show was Bollywood filmmaker Karan Johar wearing an ornate rose coloured one-button jacket with black lapels, corded epaulets and paired with sleek black trousers.
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