Many leading apparel manufacturers, brands and retailers have thrust on sustainability and this reflects in their various efforts. Some of them even release their annual sustainability reports also. But at the same time, there are thousands of micro and small-level manufacturers who are not very active on the sustainability front. In fact, hundreds of them are even not well aware of what all they can do to become more sustainable, eco-friendly. In a survey done by Apparel Resources (AR), it was observed that the awareness for sustainability has undoubtedly increased amongst small manufacturers, but on the ground level, there are very less activities. There is a dire need of handholding that these small and micro manufacturers require to be an active part of the sustainability parade and this support is required right from awareness to motivation and on financial fronts also.
Regarding sustainable fabric, there should be some support as the fabric’s high cost is an issue. Stable business will give bigger push for sustainability. Aastha Kapoor, Affordable Export, Delhi
Sustainable activities of micro and small apparel manufacturers
Careful usage of electricity, water; effective utilisation of recycled fabric; maximum use of sunlight; promotion of organic cotton-based garments; adoption of zero wastage dyeing plant; and promotion of hand-crafted garments are some of the major focus areas for small and micro-level apparel manufacturers. Use of LED lights, keeping the machines off when workers are away from work for some time, use of waste fabric (from cutting) or ensuring the use of leftover fabric are some of the few simple steps that are already followed by most of the small manufacturers. Even reuse of used saree as a fabric for garments and accessories is common practice for them.
We use sustainable raw materials like tags with plant seeds, corn starch, creating overall better working experience for all of our employees. We have also changed our office structure to ensure maximum use of sunlight. Arpit Aryan Gupta, NG Apparels, Ludhiana
Few of them, in discussion with AR, shared some interesting and inspiring initiatives like one of the Gurgaon-based apparel manufacturers informed that his team hardly wastes any envelope and reuses them with paper-printed address. Using paper for both side printing and printing only when it is really unavoidable is also a common practice.
Some companies’ owners also shared that whenever they buy any machine, they prefer machines that consume minimum energy. Taking care of their staff and workers is also a focused area of sustainability for many companies.
We have invested in ZLD and associated with BCI. But I must say that we need sustainable business to have more focus on sustainability. Uday Sehgal, Mariko Plus, Noida
Familiar with sustainability
80 % well aware
12 % have fair idea
8 % have minimum knowledge
(Some of the factory owners are not familiar with ‘sustainability’ word per se but they are involved in eco-friendly activities.)
Taking initiatives
60%: Doing whatever is easily doable or unavoidable
40%: Not doing anything
Buyers’ push or interest for sustainability
28%: Majority of buyers ask for sustainable initiatives
10%: Varies from buyers to buyers
62%: Hardly any buyer even talks about sustainability
(None of the manufacturers ever received any financial support from any buyer)
Need more participation in sustainability-focused events
70 %: Have not participated in any sustainability-related event
30 %: Have participated in sustainability-related events
(Those who have participated in sustainability-related events are not much satisfied with the outcome.)
SDG! Hardly heard
19 %: Have some information about SDG
81 %: No idea at all
(Formulated in 2015 by the United Nations General Assembly (UNGA), 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) cover the entire gamut of sustainability. It is a shared blueprint for peace and prosperity of the people and the planet now and into the future.)
Regarding support to become more sustainable, small companies like us need network, resources and knowledge sharing on sustainability. Anant Kumar, Creations of India, Delhi
Survey Details
The above survey was done completely in a telephonically way and the discussion lasted for an average of 6-7 minutes. The manufacturers were divided into three brackets based on their turnover: Rs. 1-10 crore, Rs.11-20 crore and Rs. 20-30 crore. The hub covered in the survey included Delhi-NCR, Jaipur, Tirupur, Bengaluru, Ludhiana, Lucknow and Pushkar. Apparel manufacturers from various age groups were covered but most of them were in the age of 35 to 45 years.
“Micro and small-level exporters like us need proper handholding, more clarity about how we can be more sustainable within our limited resources and limited infrastructure.” Pradeep Nahata, Karni Exports, Jaipur
Low-scale operations: an issue!
Apparel manufacturers covered in the survey strongly believe that their production on low scale is a major reason for their limited sustainability-related activities. And as their major operational processes involve fabric cutting to stitching, packaging and transportation of the shipment, there are less options available for them. One of the small apparel manufacturers stated that he can’t install solar panels even though he desires to as his factory is in a rented premise.
Awareness is also required by the overseas customers so that they realise the importance of paying more for sustainable garments. There is a need to aware the buyers about what our industry is doing with regard to sustainability. Geetanjali Kapoor, MLK Since 1965, Lucknow
Manufacturers have also been vocal about the majority of buyers (especially low- to mid- segment) hardly caring for sustainable practices and any such initiatives as they are majorly concerned about price. One of them shared about how greenwashing is becoming rampant with buyers being just concerned about approving the testing report irrespective of the product realities.
Our dyeing plant completely reuses water and going forward, we are in the process to have Global Recycle Standard (GRS) certification. A proper roadmap is required focusing on comparatively smaller or emerging manufacturers. Mitesh Sadh, MD, CR International, Noida
The focus of micro and small manufacturers on eco-friendly initiatives can increase only if they get good support from their buyers as manufacturers’ whole thrust is to survive and to keep their business reasonably profitable. As they are completely involved in handling day-to-day business activities and overcoming regular challenges for survival, they find it difficult to manage extra time and resources for sustainability-related events.
