Erbe “Intelligent” Linking Machine
The linking chain stitch machine of Erbe, Roanne in France, is suitable for linking loop by loop of knits in 3gg to 16gg – all in one machine. The clue is the UV optical yarn knitted in the parts to be assembled. The detector camera next to the needle shows the needle in the right place for stitching – in the centre of the loop. Behind this is a high-tech software and mechanic. As a first step for a new production lot, the software is “taught” the right distances of stitches. Once the specific programme is stored, the production can be started. The software combines the data saved with the information of the detection camera and steers the needle from loop to loop. The operator avoids a tedious preparation, thanks to the detection camera which calculates every displacement. The chain stitch combines flexibility and simplicity of both adjustment and use.
The mechanical accuracy of the bodkins is replaced by the reliability of the calculator. Keltoum Dreesen, Inventor and Project Manager at Erbe says, “The machine combines three working steps in one – the user will gain up to 50% of time and will improve their quality. The return of investment (about €35,000) will be very fast, when producing in at least two shifts.” Already now, several renowned international market leaders show a lot of interest in the machine and have started evaluation tests.
Duerkopp 204-102 SL
The new 2-needle post-bed machine of Duerkopp, Bielefeld/ Germany, stitches decorative seams on medium weight materials such as leather, denim or other fabrics for upholstery, apparel and interior applications.
Three dimensional items can be decorated thanks to the post-bed construction.
The needles and the two independently working loppers allow the combination of stitch patterns.
The resident software of the machines has 200 stitch patterns, 40 more can be programmed individually.
The combination of several stitch patterns allows more than 4,000 variants – making every item unique in its look.
The selection of the patterns and the definition of the stitch length are done via the touch screen.
Compleat™ Arashi Shibori Wrapping Machine
The Compleat™ Arashi Shibori Wrapping Machine from Anne Selby Ltd., Bath in UK, developed an electrically-driven ‘Wrapping’ Machine that facilitates Arashi Shibori pleating of fabric.
Arashi Shibori is the Japanese technique of over-wrapping fabric on a pole with string, and compressing it. The machine takes the physical strain out of the wrapping process without removing any of the creative opportunities.
The integrated steam system means that three stages in the process can be completed with the use of the machine: the wrapping/pleating; any over-dyeing to introduce colour along the peaks of the pleats (this is unique to Arashi Shibori pleating), and the steam-setting of the dyes and pleats.
Lectra DesignConcept Auto
Lectra, Bordeaux, France, provides with DesignConcept Auto a solution especially designed for developing automobile interiors, seats and accessories. The software will allow constructors and suppliers to control their time-to-market by anticipating their production costs and ensuring optimum product quality.
The pattern-flattening from 3D to 2D is done including the characteristics and distortions of the chosen fabric. According to Lectra, this application would save lead times by 30 to 75%.
Simulation and Virtual Fit Control
The Institute of Textile and Clothing Technology, Dresden in Germany, developed in cooperation with the Tuebingen University, Tuebingen, Germany, a software which is able to simulate multi-layer textiles and seams in a realistic manner.
The industry-oriented test procedures identify the material properties. Once identified, the parameters will be introduced to the simulation.
