For 42 years, Triburg Consulting Pvt. Ltd., has been providing comprehensive sourcing services for apparel. With vendors situated in India, Bangladesh and Indonesia, its end-to-end solution encompasses design and sourcing services and is backed by a skilled team comprising designers, merchandisers, fabric specialists, tech experts, colourists, operations and quality assurance professionals. It currently collaborates with 46 apparel brands and ensures timely delivery through a network of 500 factories. In an off-the-cuff interview, Sanjiv Kumar, who has been working as Technical Head at Triburg for the past 17 years, discusses the necessity for strategic collaboration with sales teams, data security, the delicate balance between local and global market strategies and more. Here are the excerpts from the interview.
AR: How do you see the evolution of buying houses with the integration of AI and other technologies in their operations?
Sanjiv Kumar: AI can revolutionise various aspects of fashion such as design, fabric research, technical services, quality control and logistics. For example, it can explore extensive fabric databases to find new materials based on sustainability, durability and comfort. This paves the way for innovative and eco-friendly fabric options. AI analyses the environmental impact of sourcing, suggesting ethical partners and optimising production to reduce waste and carbon footprint, meeting the demand for conscious fashion. Simulations powered by AI predict how fabrics behave under different conditions, ensuring optimal performance for specific uses like sportswear or eveningwear. AI algorithms translate design sketches into precise patterns, freeing up technical teams for complex garment construction. 3D technology enables rapid prototyping, reducing the need for time-consuming and expensive samples. We also have many examples of optimum utilisation of fabric and cost reduction with the help of AI as rendering style in 3D-based fabric width has enhanced marker efficiency. AI is also helping us to print fabric with the desired placement of any motif to have the best fabric utilisation.
The future demands new materials, cutting-edge technologies and sustainable practices. Sourcing teams can become the innovation hub, actively researching and collaborating with suppliers to develop unique and marketable products. Sourcing teams, with their deep understanding of materials, suppliers and market trends, can become integral partners in product development. They can provide valuable insights during the design stage, ensuring prototypes are feasible and cost-effective to produce.
AR: How important is collaborating with the merchandise team?
Sanjiv Kumar: The merchandise team is on the frontlines, interacting with customers (retailers and manufacturers) daily. They have their fingers on the pulse of real-time trends, preferences and pain points. Merchandise teams witness first-hand how customers react to new trends and styles. This information helps buying houses interpret fashion forecasts and translate them into tangible purchasing decisions, avoiding risky bets on untested trends and maximising investment in styles with proven appeal.
AR: How are needs’ requirement of domestic customers different from international ones?
Sanjiv Kumar: A clear distinction exists between the demands of domestic and international customers, particularly in terms of order quantity. We handle a significant volume of shipments to the United States and we have a large number of customers placing orders ranging from 70,000 to 100,000 units per style. Whereas, local customers typically procure fewer than 1,000 pieces. The disparity extends to lead time and approval processes, where domestic customers benefit from quicker procedures, while international counterparts naturally entail more time. Furthermore, the expectations of international customers surpass those of domestic ones in various facets. Stricter adherence to environmental and technical compliance is paramount for international clients. For example, significant disparities exist in the safety protocols for kids’ products between domestic and international standards. The American Society for Testing of Materials (ASTM) imposes stringent guidelines on children’s safety, emphasising on robust protocol required in the US.
| In the post-Covid scenario, there has been an increase in the popularity of casualwear, activewear and denimwear. Previously, the ratio was 60:40, with formalwear comprising 60 per cent and casualwear making up 40 per cent. However, post-Covid, there has been a complete reversal of this trend. Sanjiv Kumar Technical Head, Triburg |
AR: Your views on the future of sourcing?
Sanjiv Kumar: It’s true that the future of sourcing will be fraught with challenges. Geopolitical disruptions, climate change, ethical concerns and evolving consumer demands will undoubtedly keep sourcing teams on their toes. However, I believe the trajectory of sourcing is intricately tied to three critical factors – ease offered to customers in product design, innovation and speed. The ease afforded to customers in product design holds significant weight. Ensuring a user-friendly and accessible experience for customers to engage in product customisation is important for staying competitive. In terms of innovation, buying houses must not only keep up with the latest technological advancements but also foster a culture of creativity and forward-thinking within their operations. Speed is another key facet that holds particular significance for buying houses. The ability to swiftly move from design concept to product availability is imperative. Streamlining processes, optimising supply chains and staying agile in response to market trends are essential for meeting the rapid pace of the fashion industry. Quick turnarounds and timely deliveries are crucial aspects that contribute to the overall success of a buying house.
AR: Beyond the traditional markets, which emerging markets do you foresee playing a significant role in the future?
Sanjiv Kumar: Australia has been gaining attention for its flourishing fashion scene. With a discerning consumer base and a growing appetite for global trends, Australian cities like Sydney and Melbourne offer lucrative opportunities for buying houses. Another region that’s on our radar is South America, encompassing countries like Brazil, Argentina and Colombia. Cities like São Paulo and Buenos Aires have become international fashion hubs, making them strategic targets for fashion buying houses looking to tap into the region’s potential.
