In the apparel value chain ‘home workers’ who have long been accepted as skilled workers comprise mostly of women operating either from their homes or from the far off remote villages doing handwork for exporters supplying to international markets. Remaining largely untouched by labour reforms, social compliances, code of conducts and the growing demand for better working conditions, it is estimated that more than 3,000 exporters in India are dependent on more than 30 million home workers offering value addition to their products. Global retailers are now focusing on this class of workers, and Next is one such brand that is actively working in this segment. The brand is looking to involve more local NGOs which are more close to the home workers and play a major role in enhancing the welfare of these workers.
“We are associated with various NGOs working in this sector for the past 12 years, but it is not an easy job; however collaborative efforts of each stakeholder will definitely change the situation. We have identified 23 factories with their 73 sub contractors and 2700 home workers working in the chain. At factory level, we have created a tool which is a comprehensive document, mandatory for all factories to follow with each and every minute detail of their terms and condition on how to execute work with sub contractors including code of conducts in case of rejections, alterations, etc. At home worker level we have a passbook system in which all records are mentioned order wise, colour wise and style wise so that at the end of the work, the worker or sub contractor should not have any dispute. We want to bring more and more transparency in the system, so that there is no scope for exploitation,” said Vikram Pandita, Regional Manager – South Asia, Next Code of Practice.
[bleft]Next is also working on a community approach wherein the home workers will work together at a common place – the Molar Band area of Delhi.[/bleft]
Most stakeholders also believe that mapping of sub contractors who regulate the home workers is very difficult as they keep changing their place, ownership and even workers. Keeping this in mind, Next is also working on a community approach wherein the home workers will work together at a common place – at the Molar Band area of Delhi – where all facilities like doctor and crèche will be provided so that women can focus more on their work and enhance productivity. “We have selected this area after much research and since 80 per cent of the home workers are women, such initiatives are the need of the hour,” added Vikram.
Meanwhile, AEPC through its programme DISHA and other projects, is sensitizing exporters on safeguarding the interest of home workers. “It is the need of the hour to educate and train factory workers with the risks associated in sub contracting and issues resulting thereof. But we have to look at the other sides also, like various buyers are paying different amounts for similar kind of work. It is difficult to explain to the sub contractors or the home workers that why we were giving more or giving less for the same job,” concludes HKL Magu, MD, Jyoti Apparels, Delhi and Senior Vice Chairman, AEPC.






